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Sewing Patterns

Free Pattern Alert!

Lingerie, New Items, Sewing Patterns

I shared my ultimate cottagecore lingerie set on my YouTube channel back in August and really enjoyed getting back to sewing lingerie with woven fabric. That’s kind of where I got my start!

I love historical clothing. I used to make all kinds of Victorian costumes and corsets in fashion school. All of the details and the drama are just so fun… and I’ve always been particularly drawn to what people used to wear under their clothes. I’m not sure it’s something most people think about!

When we think of underwear and lingerie we usually think of light, stretchy fabrics. But elastic is a pretty new technology! At one time, not that long ago, most lingerie and even a lot of swimwear was made out of woven fabrics. If you’re a collector of vintage or antique clothes or sewing patterns, you’ll be well aware of this!

A lovely lady in 1940s beach wear courtesy of Vintage Everyday

One of the sewing patterns in my personal collection is for an original 1940’s bra top. I believe it was originally meant for beachwear, but I thought it lent itself well to lingerie. I used the basic style line as my inspiration for the August Bra, but added elasticized edges, ruffles, and tie on straps.

I decided to release this pattern in two formats. You can get the pattern for FREE. Yep, free! The free version doesn’t have a full set of written instructions, but I do have an indepth video on YouTube walking you through the steps. If you prefer a more traditional format, you can purchase an ad-free version that includes the pattern and written instructions with full colour photos in my traditional PDF format.

Fabric selection is important for this bra. Look for fabrics that are lightweight and with a good drape. If you are online shopping, search for fabrics that include rayon, viscose or bamboo, as they are all really drapable fibres. Weaves like challis, charmeuse, and gauze all have a looser weave that are perfectly suited for this pattern! Really tightly woven fabric like poplin could result in a slightly smaller fit. So, if you have a really tightly woven fabric, I’d suggest sizing up.

I’m excited to see what you come up with using my pattern. Tag me on the socials, @ohhhlulu everywhere. I’ll also be releasing a bottom to go with it in the next few days!

New Pattern! The Cedar Bodysuit

Design Diary, New Items, Sewing Patterns, Uncategorized

Here is another one of those projects that I started ages ago… And when I say ages, I mean literal years.

I have this problem. It’s not just a design problem, but a problem that infiltrates my normal life as well. I’m not sure if it’s part of being a perfectionist, or what it is… I’ll use this pattern as an example. I started with a really simple design – the scoop neck bodysuit with a built in shelf bra. Then I thought, “a thong would be a nice addition… but wouldn’t it also be cool if I had a high neck version? What if I added ruffles? It would be so easy to make this into a tank top… oh, if I added straps I could make it a garter tank! But if it were longer it would make a really comfortable slip-dress / nightie… and what if I used the shelf bra as a stand alone bra pattern… what if I added cut-outs to the neckline?” You can see, my one idea grows and grows and grows until it is so overwhelming that I come to a stand still.

I do this all the time. I don’t know if there is a name for that, but I really struggle with it.

A few weeks ago I realized that this really stops me from getting anything done. I have great big huge intentions that are too big for one little lady to manage on her own. So I decided to take several leaps backwards and keep it fairly simple. As a bit of a compromise to myself, I added a few simple Pattern Hack’s at the end of the instructions to show you how you can easily take this pattern and make it a tank top, slip dress, or garter tank. One of my pattern testers took the ruffle pattern piece from my Kelly Pattern and used it along the leg line and that worked out great too!

I’ve always said that one of my goals with my patterns and my YouTube tutorials is to teach people methods of doing things… so you can come up with your own methods that work for you! So, I think reminding myself to keep thing simple is important so that I can maintain true to my roots.

The Cedar Pattern has both a low and high neck variation. Both have a built in shelf bra. Before I had my reduction this was an absolute must have for me, but even now, with smaller boobs, the added support is nice. It has the option of either a full seat or thong back and I show two different ways of applying snaps at the gusset seam. The pattern works best with fabrics with 4 way stretch. I had a lot of fun sewing it with sheer mesh and lace but also sewed one out of velvet and another using a rib knit from Bibs & Boots Fabrics.

As always, I’ve posted a sewing tutorial for this pattern over on YouTube, so you can check it out if you are wanting to preview how it is made. You can purchase the pattern on Etsy, or right Here!

Shop new arrivals

Birch Tester Round Up!

Sewing Patterns, Uncategorized

Birch came out a month ago but I’m just now getting around to posting some photos from the wonderful people who tested out the pattern for me before it was released.

If you are curious about becoming a tester, I usually put out a call in my Sewing Group on Facebook. The testing process is fairly simple. I give a list of questions that I’d like answered about the pattern… basic stuff like, “Can you put the pattern together? Were you able to follow the instructions? Did I inadvertently write a swear word anywhere?” I understand that sewing underwear is a little “intimate,” so sharing your photos with the world is totally up to you! But I know I like to show off my makes.

The Birch variation with the elastic around the waist and legs has become my go-to basic underwear pattern. I’ve literally got a few cut out, ready to be stitched up right here beside me. I’ve been living in high waist mom jeans and leggings + long skirt combos, and they feel really comfortable underneath. They just skim all the right places!

I won’t take up too much of your time. Let’s see what my friends sewed! I honestly am always so blown away by people’s creativity and skill. Thank you so much to everyone who donates their time and efforts to help me out with my patterns.

If you are looking for sewing inspiration in my IG feeds, feel free to follow these amazing sewists!

Cutting No-Shows and beginner tips

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized

This post contains affiliate links. I may make a small commission on qualifying items purchased through affiliate links. Thank you for your support!

The Birch No Show Panties was a fun project for me because the techniques were something new! While the cut may be pretty classic, the sewing techniques were really different.

Because the No Show variation of these undies has no elastic you want to make sure it your cut edge is nice and clean. Normally, my go to for cutting is a good pair of scissors, but a rotary cutter is also an excellent way to get a clean cut.

I like this 18mm rotary cutter. It’s small and compact and is great for cutting around small pieces you often find with lingerie sewing patterns.

Don’t forget you’ll also need a cutting mat if you are new to rotary cutters!

The pattern as it prints is to be placed on the fold. I was able to cut through two layers with my rotary cutter. However, you may want to mirror your front and back pattern pieces if you find cutting through two layers of fabric is a little too tricky. I recently uploaded a video walking you through how to neatly cut your own pair of Birch No Show’s, but these tips and techniques will work for any no show garment.

Lilith: 3 Years in the making.

New Items, Sewing Patterns

I first posted teasers of this pattern in 2018.

I’m going to share something unflattering about myself… if something doesn’t automatically come easy to me, I tend to give up.

Sleeves are not something I draft much as a lingerie designer, so a shrug was a little outside of my comfort zone (my comfort zone being “things that I am very good at”). I feel kind of ridiculous even saying that since the base of this garment really is quite simple… But I was overwhelmed and uncertain of myself.

The Lilith is shown here layered with Tundra, Jasmine & The Ultimate Lace Panties.

But when I came across pictures of this pattern with fresh eyes, I felt inspired again. I sent it off to a second round of testers, made a few adjustments here and there… and now I think I am finally feeling like I can release this pattern.

Ugh… Pattern release day is so excruciating for me. Of course there’s the thrill of doing something new… but for me, what overwhelms that is the fear that I have made a mistake. I’m not sure why that bothers me so much, I am a PRO at making (and fixing!) mistakes. I have made so many mistakes I could write a book about it..

Anyway, I’m sure you’re tired of me rambling. Let’s talk lingerie!

When I came up with the idea of the Lilith Pattern, I was looking for ways to add layers to lingerie I already owned. The lacy or long sleeve Lilith Shrug shows off a pretty bra or bodysuit while adding complexity to an outfit. It is extremely adjustable, so even though it falls into my standard size range, I am confident it will fit a range of sizes above my Size Red.

In my opinion, I think this pattern would be good for someone who is slightly above a beginner; more intermediate level. Sewing and attaching the straps can be tricky in places. But, I do have a video over on my YouTube channel that walks you through how to sew the lace variation.

If you’d like to give this new pattern a try, you can get a copy Here, or over on Etsy!

Better late than never… A few Cabin Testers!

Sewing Patterns, Uncategorized

In my usual style, I am writing this post much later than I had anticipated… but that’s pandemic life for you!

When I use a testing group, I usually like to select just a handful of people. I have found that my brain gets very quickly overwhelmed when I am working with too big of a group. I remember a few years ago I decided to simultaneously test half a dozen patterns with so many different people. I struggled to keep track of everything and I am sure I missed out on important feedback. It is such a gift of a persons time and materials to test out a new pattern, so I find personally when I use a smaller group I can most effectively make use of that feedback.

Anyway, enough about my process! Here are the makes my tester group made for my Cabin panties! These testers were amazing. Quick, thorough and concise! Thank you so much to all of you.

I wanted to send a bit of a special shout out to Erin from Dog Under My Desk, who tested out my pattern just a few weeks before giving birth to a new baby! Thank you so much for sharing your time and knowledge with me.

Tori made these amazing rainbow bokeh print Cabins. If you love sewing lingerie, you need to follow her on IG.

Tori’s make! IG @lachesisandco

I love Charlenes makes! Through her feedback, we found that fabrics with more vertical stretch like bamboo lycra jersey tend to be the ideal for the best fit. I’m in love with the linen look fabrics she used.

See more of Charlenes makes @ohsocherie

The mock fly front seems to be a popular variation! Amanda used this amazing geo-floral as well as a solid bamboo lycra jersey.

Follow Amanda in Instagram

Felicia from Sewing with Rascals (I can relate) used this adorable custom printed fabric for her Cabin’s. One of the things I like about this pattern is that the standard view has no centre front seam. This can really help highlight larger or more complicated prints and patterns as they are not obscured by any seam lines.

Felicia’s adorable Cabin’s

I’ve also continued making Cabin Shorties for myself, including my favourite pair made out of this custom printed bamboo jersey. I used a 1″ stretch lace around the waist instead of standard elastic. This can make the waist less sturdy, so if you have problems with the lace rolling or sliding down, you can always run a length of 1/4″ elastic around the inside of the lace to help hold it in place.

Made by yours truly.

I hope seeing these makes has inspired you! Right now the Cabin Pattern is 50% off as a part of my Spin the Wheel Sale… I’ll explain more about that in a separate post!

Oh, and if you are ever interested in testing a new pattern, I usually put out Tester Calls in my facebook group.

How to use Boning for Added Support in Bras

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized

One of the reasons I started making wire-free bras is because underwires, no matter what size I wear, end up giving me terrible chest and back pain by the end of the day. I just love the relaxed comfort of a soft bra.

That being said, sometimes you want to find ways to give your wire-free bras a little more structure. There are lots of different ways you can do this, from sewing them with wider band and strap elastic, to adding some light sew-in foam. Over the summer, I finally got around to experimenting with something I’ve been wanting to do for a while: adding boning to the sides of my Jasmine Bras.  Personally, I’m not a big fan of foam bras for myself. For me, a lightweight lace bra is my go-to, but I wanted to add a little more vertical structure.

What is boning?

Boning is best known for it’s use in corsetry, but it’s used in everything from longline bras to wedding dresses to swimwear! Basically, any garment where you need some vertical structure to prevent a garment from folding in on itself, OR when you want to create a garment that shapes the body, you’ll want to use boning.

There are a few different types of boning:

Rigelene / Sew-in boning – very lightweight plastic boning that can be sewn through and does not have a casing.

Plastic Boning – heavier than rigilene boning and often comes with a casing. Easy to cut and sew, but can form permanent bends when used in corsets or shaping garments.

Flat Spring Steel Boning – this boning is very rigid and great for use where a lot of vertical structure is needed, like on either side of corset laces.

Steel Spiral Boning – very flexible but strong steel boning made out of flattened coiled steel. This boning is great for use down side seams of corsets or structured evening dresses as it will bend around the curves of the waist and hips.

Although there are many ways to “install” boning, I usually like to use a casing. You can buy a tightly woven casing meant specifically for boning which I highly recommend using as it will prevent the bones from working their way through, but if you’re experimenting and are not ready to commit to purchasing supplies, bias or twill tape are good alternatives.

Most fabric stores will stock plastic and/or rigilene boning. You can find metal boning at larger bra and corset making supply shops, like Bra-Maker’s Supply.

For this particular bra, I used small pieces of Flat Spring Steel Boning and cotton bone casing, however I’ve made myself a couple of other bras using Plastic Boning that I like just as well. Truthfully, the bones are so small in this variation that either works well.

Installing the bones.

I assembled my Jasmine Bra in lace according to the pattern instructions.

Before finishing the seam allowance on the side seam and applying the upper elastic, stitch a length of bone casing to the seam allowance, along the side seam stitching line.

Trim back the seam allowance to approximately 1/4″.

Fold the casing down and top stitch in place along the opposite edge.

You now have a casing stitched to the bra side seam that will soon house your boning!

I decided to sew a second length of casing beside the side seam, running slightly on the diagonal. My goal  was to have it slightly follow the side of my breast.

Finish your upper edge according to the pattern instructions.

Measure out your boning so that it is at least 1″ shorter than the length of the casing. Remember, you need to leave enough room to stitch on the band elastic.

If you are using plastic boning, round off the ends of the boning and file down any rough or sharp bits. If you are using metal boning, finish the ends with metal boning tips. This will smooth out the ends of the boning so they won’t poke through.

Insert the bones into the casing, making sure you have left at least a 1″ gap at the bottom. From here, you can complete the assembly of the bra.

A very important note.

When you are ready to sew on your band elastic, please stitch very carefully past where your boning is. If you are using plastic boning, you may find that your sewing machine will just stitch through the boning, but if you have chosen metal, your sewing machine will spit needle shards at you.

Finishing Up.

Adding boning this way doesn’t change the overall look of the bra, but it does add some vertical structure which can help your bra stay more up-right while still being comfortable. Here’s another one I made, this time in a neutral beige lace (which had yet to have it’s straps sewn on). Leah thought it looked great! And honestly, it’s my current favourite bra.

 

Introducing Tundra

Design Diary, Lingerie, New Items, Sewing Patterns

Warning… sultriness ahead! This pattern is not for the faint of heart.

I’ve had a few requests for a few “sexier” pieces, and I think this is the jackpot.  They are layerable, adjustable, and just plain fun to wear and experiment with.

Shown here layered under my Lilith Shrug, pattern is coming soon!

Continue Reading

Introducing Hunter

Lingerie, New Items, Sewing Patterns

Ok, every time I make a new underwear pattern I proclaim that this pattern is my favourite. Seriously though, these undies are my honest to goodness favourite as far as comfort goes! I’m wearing a pair in bamboo jersey right now. They are just perfect for my shape!

The Hunter Underwear Pattern is a pretty easy sew as far as lingerie goes. They have a simple FOE waistband and an elastic stabilized hem. The trickiest part of these is sewing the triangular insert, but I’ve got a video on how to do just that! This technique is a good one to know whether you’re sewing this pattern, my Clara Sleep Mask Pattern, or any other project that has sharp, inset corners.

I’ve been liking these for wearing under leggings when I go running. The elasticized hem stays put on my body shape and the mid-rise is really comfortable on my non-apologetically soft 35 year old mom stomach.

I really like this pattern. It’s basically what I’m all about… simplicity! To me, simple = sexy, or at least that’s how it makes me feel which is the important part, right? I’ve been stocking up my underwear drawer in these sewn in bamboo because it’s silky, soft, and lightweight, but I’ve recently ordered some thermal knits that I’m excited to experiment with for winter!

For a limited time, you can get the pattern for 25% off here and through Etsy.

Happy Sewing!

Bambi + Grace Update!

Lingerie, New Items, Sewing Patterns

The very first pattern I released was the Betty High Waist Panties Pattern. My next two were these; the Bambi and Grace. I released these as patterns in 2013 and they have been a staple in both my pattern and made to order lingerie collections ever since.

When I first started making lingerie, sourcing good knits and lingerie fabrics was much tricker than it is now. Lots has changed in the last 10 years when it comes to indie sewing! I had a very clear vision in my head of the prints and colours I wanted to use, but was limited by my fabric selection… so I developed patterns that were suitable for wovens, which were easier to find at the time.

These days, finding cute knits is easy, with websites like Spoonflower, Girl Charlee, and lots of the big textile designers releasing their prints on knit bases, but there is still a nice space for some patterns that use wovens as a base.

The Bambi Bra & Grace panties were originally developed for use with a combination of bias cut woven fabric and stretch knits to create fitted lingerie pieces with a vintage-vibe. In particular, these patterns are perfect for creating luxurious silk lingerie!

When I first developed the Grace pattern, I suggested using a bias cut woven fabric for the front and back of the Grace Panties and a stretch knit for the hips, but you can easily swap these out and use knits for the front and back and non-stretch lace on the hips, like you can see in the sets above! I used a dramatic venice lace with a stretch mesh front and back. I absolutely love the effect this created! You can even sew this pattern entirely in knits. I normally sew it in the same size as I would a woven.

The updated version of the Bambi Bra pattern comes with two cup variations. Cup Size 1 and Cup Size 2, which will roughly fit a range of A-D cups. Like the Grace, I originally developed this pattern for a combination of woven and knit fabrics, but have been sewing this also entirely in knits! When you do this, you get a much more generous fit, so if you are a little out of the approximate cup size range, give this a go in a nice jersey or stretch mesh.

The new Bambi Pattern also shows you how to sew the upper cup with a scalloped edge, or with a centre front cut out. I’ve added strap tabs over the front cups which to me had a more retro-aesthetic and cleaner finish.

I’ve had fun sewing a few Grace & Bambi sets in pretty silks. I had a few pieces of some Liberty print charmeuse, as well as a small piece of marbled silk that were perfect for these projects! I even used a silk scarf for one set! That’s one of the great things about this pattern. Because of the style lines, the pattern pieces themselves are relatively small so you can get away with using small pieces of luxurious fabrics without totally breaking the bank.

Pretty soon, I’ll be releasing an add-on to the Bambi Bra pattern that will teach you how to sew it as a strappy demi-bra. Here’s a little teaser for you!

For a limited time I have a special price on my Bambi and Grace patterns!

If you have already purchased and would like to receive the updated copy of the pattern, please feel free to send me an email with your order number and I’ll get it over to you as soon as I can!