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Birch Tester Round Up!

Sewing Patterns, Uncategorized

Birch came out a month ago but I’m just now getting around to posting some photos from the wonderful people who tested out the pattern for me before it was released.

If you are curious about becoming a tester, I usually put out a call in my Sewing Group on Facebook. The testing process is fairly simple. I give a list of questions that I’d like answered about the pattern… basic stuff like, “Can you put the pattern together? Were you able to follow the instructions? Did I inadvertently write a swear word anywhere?” I understand that sewing underwear is a little “intimate,” so sharing your photos with the world is totally up to you! But I know I like to show off my makes.

The Birch variation with the elastic around the waist and legs has become my go-to basic underwear pattern. I’ve literally got a few cut out, ready to be stitched up right here beside me. I’ve been living in high waist mom jeans and leggings + long skirt combos, and they feel really comfortable underneath. They just skim all the right places!

I won’t take up too much of your time. Let’s see what my friends sewed! I honestly am always so blown away by people’s creativity and skill. Thank you so much to everyone who donates their time and efforts to help me out with my patterns.

If you are looking for sewing inspiration in my IG feeds, feel free to follow these amazing sewists!

Cutting No-Shows and beginner tips

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized

This post contains affiliate links. I may make a small commission on qualifying items purchased through affiliate links. Thank you for your support!

The Birch No Show Panties was a fun project for me because the techniques were something new! While the cut may be pretty classic, the sewing techniques were really different.

Because the No Show variation of these undies has no elastic you want to make sure it your cut edge is nice and clean. Normally, my go to for cutting is a good pair of scissors, but a rotary cutter is also an excellent way to get a clean cut.

I like this 18mm rotary cutter. It’s small and compact and is great for cutting around small pieces you often find with lingerie sewing patterns.

Don’t forget you’ll also need a cutting mat if you are new to rotary cutters!

The pattern as it prints is to be placed on the fold. I was able to cut through two layers with my rotary cutter. However, you may want to mirror your front and back pattern pieces if you find cutting through two layers of fabric is a little too tricky. I recently uploaded a video walking you through how to neatly cut your own pair of Birch No Show’s, but these tips and techniques will work for any no show garment.

It’s been a week…

Personal, Uncategorized, VLCAD

I barely had a chance to get used to the idea that Oliver wasn’t with us anymore when Lila started running a fever and my focus had to change. By Friday night she was sick to her stomach (huge red flags for FOAD kids!), and despite her insistence that she was okay, I called the metabolic specialist who suggested we take her to the hospital for fluids.

VLCAD sucks. I’m just going to come out and say it. Preventative, multi-night hospital stays with a 3 year old sucks. Begging and pleading with your kid to just please eat so we can go home really sucks. It’s draining.

She ended up being diagnosed with influenza in the ER. Having my dad experience serious complications from the flu 4 years ago has imprinted on me how serious the flu can be. We get our flu shots every year, but hadn’t gotten ours yet this year. Luckily Lila’s symptoms were mild and any other kid would have been fine managing at home with the symptoms she had. But, because of her VLCAD diagnosis she needed to get on some extra fluids until she could eat again. The thing is, she is just not herself in the hospital, so I walk this tight rope of begging to take her home to see if she will eat vs. staying in the hospital for multiple days with a kid who is totally fine but just doesn’t want to eat because being in the hospital is one of the worst things ever!

On top of that, there was a labour strike within the school system which meant schools were closed and kids were supposed to be doing online work. My husband is a mechanic and this is a busy time for him (plus he just recently started this job), and truth be told, we really need the income that his job brings in right now. Me not working the way I normally would during the pandemic really took its toll on us. So I felt like I was in this no-win position…

Thankfully, we ended up getting the ok to go home on Sunday afternoon which was amazing. However, by Monday I was sick, and then on Tuesday my oldest fell sick. And let me tell you, influenza is not a joke. I scream this from the roof tops every year after seeing what my dad went through, “get your dang flu shot!” We had it mild and it’s still pretty awful. Plus, it could save a kid like Lila from spending days in the hospital.

But now, Thursday, Isabel is on the mend. I am feeling about 75% better and at least able to stay conscious for an entire work day.

It just feels like a lot sometimes. Life should only be allowed to dole you out one thing at a time. At this point, I’m not sure if I’m exhausted from fighting this virus or the emotional toll it all takes. In typical “Me” fashion, I chalk it up to me being somehow lazy and find a way to beat myself up about it.

I really struggle with Lila’s VLCAD diagnosis sometimes. We are fortunate that she has never had any symptoms and the two times she has been hospitalized, all of her bloodwork came back normal. But that throws you for a different loop as a parent. You have, on paper and what appears to be a “well” child who you are forcing to get an IV and blood draws and sit in an ER room for several hours. She was so freaked out after the IV that she wouldn’t even let anyone take her temperature under her arm. I’m still somehow hopeful that genetics will come back one day and find that her genetic mutations, both of which haven’t been seen before in any other VLCAD case, is actually benign. I don’t know if this is just me still being in denial because she always looks so well, or if there actually is hope. Regardless, I do all the things I’m supposed to… but I do worry sometimes that we are over treating her and making her scared of going to see doctors…

What I do know is that if I hear one more medical professional tell me. “All you have to do is feed her every 3 hours,” or “Just make sure she has juice when she’s sick,” I may just implode. Have you ever tried to “just” feed a toddler every 3 hours? or an infant? if they don’t want to eat, there is really no forcing them, but you as the parent have it in your head that if they don’t eat, the results could be deadly. There is no “just” doing anything with a toddler. There is not “just” a trip to the hospital for fluids. It’s an ordeal. Toddlers have this amazing way of making everything epic, for better or for worse!

When I explain the protocols for Lila’s illness to people it never sounds that bad, but it can really be an emotional challenge. While we were in the hospital, I pulled out her medical file that we carry everywhere in case she is hospitalized… in it, I had records of all of her feeds when she was an infant. Every 2-3 hours around the clock. I remember being so stressed when she wouldn’t eat after 3 hours, fearing that she would go into a metabolic crisis. And now, if she is sick and won’t eat every 3 hours, or worse, if she’s sick to her stomach, I get all of those same feelings. It’s hard trying to understand an illness as rare and complex as VLCAD. I don’t know if I need to be as stressed as I am about Lila… I hear mixed messages. From our doctors I hear she is “very mild.” And yet that doesn’t change her illness management. From the FOAD community, many of whom have lost children to these disorders will say there is no such thing as mild FOAD; that they can all lead to metabolic crisis. I’ll hear “all she needs is some fluids when she’s sick and to eat a heart healthy diet.” But what that actually looks like is much more complex (at this time in our lives anyway).

I’m eager for the day when Lila can tell me more clearly what is going on with her body and how she is feeling, and when she can understand why she needs to be eating and drinking. But at this time, it’s a struggle. I always am hesitant to share these feelings because I often get brushed off by people saying, “well at least she is well,” or “it could be worse.” And of course it could. But it also doesn’t mean that this doesn’t come without it’s challenges too, and I wish that could be acknowledged sometimes.

I’m going to leave on a high note. Here are my kiddos in their handmade halloween costume. One Yoshi and one zombie cat (which was harder to make than Yoshi)!

The Quickest Undies You’ll Ever Make!

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A while back, I had the urge to try my hand at sewing No Show undies. I’m not quite sure what spurred this on, but once I had it in my head, it had to make it a reality.

I had developed a pattern for a customer a few years back and I really liked the general fit, but wanted a few tweaks here and there. So, I used it as a base. I added more of a scooped waist, adjusted the fit here and there… and then sewed up my first pair. I couldn’t believe how quickly they sewed up! Sewing underwear with NO leg or waist finish really makes a difference!

But I couldn’t stop there… of course I had to have a lace version… and then I started thinking, how can I make this work with my favourite lingerie base, bamboo jersey? Gotta add some elastic to that!

But my main objective with this pattern was to keep things QUICK! So even the elasticized variation (which are my favourite) can be sewn in half the time compared to my normal method of applying elastic.

I know there are already patterns out there for No Show underwear, but I think one of the things that is different about mine (aside from the variations) is the way I have designed the gusset. The gusset is finished on either side of the leg line, still with a fully encased gusset seam. I’m really proud of this aspect of these panties. I looked at a lot of different pairs of ready made No Shows before settling on a construction method.

I started working on this pattern back in May and intended to release it during the summer. But as I mentioned in a previous post, double tasking the job of full time mom when my kids are home, and designer/business lady is not something I am able to maintain… so it got put on the back burner. Until this past month. I finally got the pattern finalized and sent it off to some testers. As always, the process takes so much longer than I think it should, but it’s finally ready and I’m excited to share some of the tester photos with you in another post!

In the meantime, you can buy the pattern here or on Etsy. As always, I have a YouTube tutorial showing you how to make the basic variation.

I’ll leave you with a few more styled shots! I really love these undies, especially with the elastic.

Bra Maker’s Support Club

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One of the things I love about the sewing & indie lingerie community specifically is just how supportive they are. I remember when I first started selling on Etsy, makers like Hopeless and Knickerocker were so supportive and welcoming towards me. And that really had an impact.

So, while I spent month after month home with my two kiddos with no where to go, I had the idea of the Bra Maker’s Support Club merch line to help support my YouTube channel.

Thread Magic

I wanted to create something that would allow people to show off their love of lingerie… but not in an over the top, lingerie-y way.

I’m really happy with how these turned out. The hoodie especially is so soft. I got together with my bestie this morning and had a little photoshoot down at the river.

I love this little charcoal t-shirt that says “I can make that.” I think any sewist can relate to passing up so much ready to wear clothing because…. you could so easily make that!

Instagram Giveaway!

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It has been forever since I’ve done a giveaway. Like, years!

I’ve decided to give away your choice of Quick Ship bra and undies! Here is just a sampling of what there is to choose from:

To enter, head over to my Instagram page. Like the giveaway post, follow me on Instagram and tag a friend or two!

Good luck everyone! I will choose a winner on 17-June-2022, so there is just a little over a week to enter (USA & Canada residents, 18+).

Sharing My Story (stories)

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TW: talk of mental health, self harm and addiction.

I started a variation of this blog in 2009 I believe. Back then, in the olden days, it was such a great outlet for me and I have shared a lot of my personal life in this way over the years. It truly was my open diary. I changed that along the way and became more reserved about what I shared with the world. I think having children had a lot to do with that. That, and I think I fell into that internet trap of trying to project a much more perfect life than I have…

Four years ago I went to therapy. I had some really out of control anxiety surrounding the safety of my first daughter and general self-worth issues… I was gridlocked by it. I remember sitting in front of my sewing machine, day after day, unable to do a single thing. I was crippled by the fear of failure. I had released a small collection of sewing patterns around that time, and couldn’t bring myself to promote them because I was so afraid that there was something wrong with them. Absolutely nothing I did felt like it was good enough. Getting back to work now, post-pandemic, I’m dealing with a lot of the same emotional blockages. This time, I have medication that helps the racing thoughts and a few coping mechanisms, but it’s still a struggle.

I’m in the midst of releasing a bunch of new items, and new concepts for my brand. And again, I feel that crippling fear. Nothing is ever good enough in my mind. Though it’s kind of funny, because I look back at some of the things I’ve made over the years and with the distance of time, I can see it is good. The distance of time makes everything clearer…

Growing up, I lived next door to my grandma. She lived in an old Victorian Church that she and my grandfather converted into a beautiful home complete with secret doorways, glittering antique chandeliers, and cozy wood stove. It was the the thing of fairytales, and I still go there often in my dreams. My grandma had a denim covered journal where she wrote the stories of her life. I spent a lot of time listening to her reading those stories… happy ones and sad ones. She later published many of those stories into a book.

When thinking back on my life, I feel like I’ve lived it in chapters and the ones that are closed feel a lifetime away. I almost can’t believe that parts of my life are a part of my story. But so many of the stores still resonate deep inside of me.

After graduating high school, I hesitantly went off to University. I had wanted to be a fashion designer, but was steered into a different direction. “Get a BA and go to teachers college,” is what I heard from guidance councillors… I was told fashion was too hard, I wouldn’t make any money, that it was too competitive and that I wasn’t a competitive person. So, like the obedient young woman I was, I did what I was told and left my small town and headed to University, studying History and Women’s Studies.

I shared a house with my then-boyfriend, who I had been seeing since I was 14, and some friends. I had excelled in high school, but the classes I took (particularly 2nd year Latin, and a course on South American History that I had absolutely no background in) were more challenging that I had anticipated. But, I tried and for a while, I got through. I certainly was living the college experience, and probably spent more time drinking (and sewing) than studying.

Then something unexpected happened. I awoke in the middle of the night to murmurs and thumps coming from the floor below me. I hesitantly walked down the stairs and found my then-boyfriend sitting on our couch, bloodied from self-harm and muttering about demons and angels and I don’t even know what else. Nineteen year old me stood petrified, as he still had the cutting implement in his hand. I can still see the picture in my head clear as day, though much of the next few moments are a blur. I called 911, and remember being so annoyed because I didn’t know whether I needed police, an ambulance or an exorcist. Eventually an ambulance was sent and he was taken to the hospital.

The current state of mental healthcare is not a good one, but 20 years ago it was even worse. My then-boyfriend received some inpatient treatment and was put under the care of a psychiatrist. Their approach seemed to basically be to sedate him. His initial diagnosis was schizophrenia, which at the time seemed to fit the symptoms he was experiencing; hallucinations, lost time, conspiratorial thinking, but we know now it wasn’t the correct diagnosis.

I didn’t know what to do. I spent time pleading with him trying to make him understand how non-sensical his thinking was, that the government wasn’t tracking his thoughts, that there were no dead bodies communicating with him in the park next door. In hindsight I know this was a losing battle. I spent sleepless nights listening to him talk about the dark figures in the room… Living with someone in the grips of psychosis can really start to mess with your own perception of reality.

I remember going to visit him in the psych ward once… his hands were cut up because he had locked himself in a closet and tried clawing out… these memories break my heart. For him and for me. I remember just holding him and crying. I felt so helpless and lost. As I write these things now, I can hardly believe that this was our lives.

I was only 19 and suddenly trying to navigate severe mental illness and the healthcare system while maintaining my own safety and sanity.

In the chaos, I stopped going to university. No one reached out. I just stopped going and never went back except to withdraw from my classes.

No healthcare worker ever made sure I had the resources to help keep him safe, myself safe, or even well.

Sadly, also at this time my brother was beginning his spiral into addiction and his own mental health struggles. I felt like I couldn’t burden my family with my problems when there was already so much pain happening at home.

Through it, no one asked if I was ok.

Ever…

I realize now, with the distance of time, that what I internalized from this experience is that I didn’t matter.

The following year I left everything. I moved to Toronto. Got the cheapest, crappiest apartment I could find and enrolled in the Fashion Design Program at George Brown. I spent two very lonely years there by myself and moved into an emotionally tumultuous relationship. My ex ended up moving to another province and I think an equally as tumultuous relationship as well. Those years were really hard. I was poor and struggling and didn’t feel like I had anyone to reach out to for help. I’ve held onto that lonely sense of independence to a fault. I still can’t ask for help… wouldn’t want to bother anyone…

Twenty years later, we both are “well.” In fact he is still one of my best friends and even spoke at my wedding. But I have scars from that time in my life that I am only just dealing with 20 years later. I have guilt for leaving… for not knowing what to do… for not being able to handle everything… for failing and dropping out of school. And I’m also angry at a system that allows a 19 year old kid to navigate that alone.

As I look back at my life, it often feels like lots of things happened around me, but not necessarily to me. My friends mental illness. My brothers addiction and trouble with the law. Not things that happened to me, but things that, as someone who loves these people, was and is traumatic all the same. In addition to this, when there is so much chaos and turmoil in the lives of the ones you love, it can be hard to appreciate your own hardships. I often get in the mindset that what I have been through is no where near as bad as what others have been through, so how dare I feel sad or angry.

I guess the reason I am sharing this is that I know I am not alone in my experience. These aren’t things anyone should have to go through alone and in sharing it, it feels much less lonely.

I’m back and I brought stuff!

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I’m not even going to get into in. What a total mess the last two years have been. We got hit with covid twice, a stomach virus that landed one kid in hospital… It’s just been… bad… and as my kids got back to their places I really struggled getting back in the groove of things.

I spent the years prior to my maternity leave in 2019 up to my ears in lingerie orders. Having released virtually nothing new since 2018, my shop has been stale… I felt stale… I didn’t even know how to restart again.

Things are slower these days, though I’m looking at it as an opportunity to delve into some of the projects I started over the years but never finished… and there are alot.

I also did some reflecting and thought about my “roots” and the things that I love about fashion, and specifically lingerie. I love that it can be this pretty, or racy, or elegant base that no one else but you has to know about. It’s something that’s close to you and (can be) just for you.

I was thinking a while ago about the fashion I loved when I was a teenager. I loved thrifting, history, art… those were things that really defined my style, and I like to think still are a big part of how I like to dress. I love to wear an outfit that harkens back to another time. I kind of like living in a bit of a daydream.

So, when I was designing fabrics for my latest release I relied heavily on concepts that I loved in my youth, and that I think remain a staple to this day…. specifically Toile de Jouy, cherubs, and of course, flowers.

I still have some more made to order pieces to photograph, but I wanted to share with you what I’ve done so far! As always, I designed pieces that I want to wear. I am my own target audience. These pieces are comfortable and light, but also little works of art.

I’d love to hear what you think and if you have a favourite piece! You can view the entire collection on Etsy.

Robes!

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Are we really back, Ontario? My kids have been in school/daycare for a few weeks now. I’m finishing up a huge order for one of my favourite clients (who lets me have free rein on design choices!) and working on some new pieces while pondering what the future holds for my little business.

I’ve set up my business in a really difficult way to scale. Because every single item I make is cut and sewn specifically for you, with tweaks here and there for fit, styling, etc, my turn around is slower that what people are used to in this time of fast fashion. Hiring another sewist would be the obvious thing to do to keep up with demand. However, I live in Washago. Have you heard of it? No? That’s because it is VERY SMALL. It’s not a city, not a town, not even a village… it’s a “community.” Don’t get me wrong, I love living here in the northern most point of central Ontario, but finding a sewer seems like a difficult task…

A few years ago I started looking at Canadian Manufacturers for lingerie and actually found one or two, however their minimum order quantities were in the THOUSANDS. I’m just not prepared to order that much, especially now. The pandemic hit us hard financially as a family.

But, I need to figure out a sustainable plan to grow my business in a way that is ethical & true to my brand. Now having two little people to care for, I find my working hours are reduced, but I still have the drive and desire for making lingerie that I always have… I just need to explore different avenues. I don’t think I’ll ever stop offering custom lingerie. I think that is an important service to offer and I know my many repeat clients enjoy the process (as do I!).

One of the things I’ve discovered that I enjoy is creating my own fabrics. I love that I can develop a pattern, develop a fabric, sew it all together and really truly make something entirely out of my dreams. I’ve recently started having some of my “signature prints” developed into robes, classic briefs and pull-on bras. Although these items can’t be customized the way my made to order line is, these items ship in about 7 business days. Importantly, they are still made in Canada – the fabric is even printed here!

When I’m designing lingerie and patterns, I design what I want to wear, and I have been wearing these. The peachskin jersey robes are incredibly soft and nice and stretchy. Over the past few years, through pregnancies, breastfeeding, etc, I’ve discovered that robes are a pretty important staple in my wardrobe. If I never had to be seen by other adults, I’d probably just wear one all day. Who’s with me?

You can find these items in my Etsy Shop! More prints will be coming soon.

Bra’s feeling a little tight? DIY a cute extender!

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Cue obligatory paragraph about how things have been so crazy so I haven’t been able to post…

Seriously though, omicron. We finally were feeling confident enough to have Christmas dinner with my parents, an aunt and uncle and a couple cousins when we got a call from Isabel’s school saying she had been in close contact to a positive case. So, we spent Christmas in quarantine. I am feeling really, really, REALLY bummed about it all. I’m anticipating that kids will not be returning to school in January so I am trying my best to work on the few days that Dan is home on holidays. What a time to be alive… I’m just trying to stay focused on the fact that we are all healthy. Everything else will come with time… I think…

Anyway, I know for a fact that absolutely no one wants to hear about COVID anymore. I am declaring this a pandemic-free zone! Strictly lingerie and pretty things allowed.

When I was pregnant, I had the biggest belly in the world. It was actually kind of alarming how big it was. All of that used up space caused my ribcage to expand and all of my bras were so uncomfortable. While I could have gone out and bought some boring beige bra extenders, I decided to make a few of my own that were a little more… aesthetically pleasing. I’ve been making these occasionally for pregnant customers as well to make sure their bras can withstand all of the changes that happen in pregnancy.

But that’s not the only reason you might want an extender. Our bodies change all the time; as we age, as hormones change, etc. And sometimes you spot the most perfect bra that’s just a tad too small… this can help you with that problem and it’s very simple to do!

Supplies:

6″ length of sturdy elastic (strap elastic, firm band elastic, etc), cut into to 3″ lengths

2×3 hook and eye closure

Coordinating Thread

Instructions:

Begin by cutting your 6″ length of elastic into two 3″ pieces.

Decide on your elastic placement; criss-cross or parallel.

Insert one end of the elastics into the eye side of the closure and stitch in place.

Making sure the hooks are facing the opposite way (ie. facing towards the inside of the garment), insert the remaining side of the elastics into the closure if using a pocket style hook-side OR baste the hook-side on, trim back any excess elastic, then fold the hooks under and top stitch in place.

It is very important that in the end, you end up with the hooks facing inward and the eyes facing outward.

That’s it! So simple!

If you’re more visual, I’ve added a video tutorial over on my YouTube Channel! I hope to be posting a new video soon on how to sew nursing clips, so stay tuned!