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How to use Boning for Added Support in Bras

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized

One of the reasons I started making wire-free bras is because underwires, no matter what size I wear, end up giving me terrible chest and back pain by the end of the day. I just love the relaxed comfort of a soft bra.

That being said, sometimes you want to find ways to give your wire-free bras a little more structure. There are lots of different ways you can do this, from sewing them with wider band and strap elastic, to adding some light sew-in foam. Over the summer, I finally got around to experimenting with something I’ve been wanting to do for a while: adding boning to the sides of my Jasmine Bras.  Personally, I’m not a big fan of foam bras for myself. For me, a lightweight lace bra is my go-to, but I wanted to add a little more vertical structure.

What is boning?

Boning is best known for it’s use in corsetry, but it’s used in everything from longline bras to wedding dresses to swimwear! Basically, any garment where you need some vertical structure to prevent a garment from folding in on itself, OR when you want to create a garment that shapes the body, you’ll want to use boning.

There are a few different types of boning:

Rigelene / Sew-in boning – very lightweight plastic boning that can be sewn through and does not have a casing.

Plastic Boning – heavier than rigilene boning and often comes with a casing. Easy to cut and sew, but can form permanent bends when used in corsets or shaping garments.

Flat Spring Steel Boning – this boning is very rigid and great for use where a lot of vertical structure is needed, like on either side of corset laces.

Steel Spiral Boning – very flexible but strong steel boning made out of flattened coiled steel. This boning is great for use down side seams of corsets or structured evening dresses as it will bend around the curves of the waist and hips.

Although there are many ways to “install” boning, I usually like to use a casing. You can buy a tightly woven casing meant specifically for boning which I highly recommend using as it will prevent the bones from working their way through, but if you’re experimenting and are not ready to commit to purchasing supplies, bias or twill tape are good alternatives.

Most fabric stores will stock plastic and/or rigilene boning. You can find metal boning at larger bra and corset making supply shops, like Bra-Maker’s Supply.

For this particular bra, I used small pieces of Flat Spring Steel Boning and cotton bone casing, however I’ve made myself a couple of other bras using Plastic Boning that I like just as well. Truthfully, the bones are so small in this variation that either works well.

Installing the bones.

I assembled my Jasmine Bra in lace according to the pattern instructions.

Before finishing the seam allowance on the side seam and applying the upper elastic, stitch a length of bone casing to the seam allowance, along the side seam stitching line.

Trim back the seam allowance to approximately 1/4″.

Fold the casing down and top stitch in place along the opposite edge.

You now have a casing stitched to the bra side seam that will soon house your boning!

I decided to sew a second length of casing beside the side seam, running slightly on the diagonal. My goal  was to have it slightly follow the side of my breast.

Finish your upper edge according to the pattern instructions.

Measure out your boning so that it is at least 1″ shorter than the length of the casing. Remember, you need to leave enough room to stitch on the band elastic.

If you are using plastic boning, round off the ends of the boning and file down any rough or sharp bits. If you are using metal boning, finish the ends with metal boning tips. This will smooth out the ends of the boning so they won’t poke through.

Insert the bones into the casing, making sure you have left at least a 1″ gap at the bottom. From here, you can complete the assembly of the bra.

A very important note.

When you are ready to sew on your band elastic, please stitch very carefully past where your boning is. If you are using plastic boning, you may find that your sewing machine will just stitch through the boning, but if you have chosen metal, your sewing machine will spit needle shards at you.

Finishing Up.

Adding boning this way doesn’t change the overall look of the bra, but it does add some vertical structure which can help your bra stay more up-right while still being comfortable. Here’s another one I made, this time in a neutral beige lace (which had yet to have it’s straps sewn on). Leah thought it looked great! And honestly, it’s my current favourite bra.

 

Birthday Time

New Items, Personal, Sales

Has it really been another year already?

Tomorrow is the big day… Canada Day and my birthday!

This year feels like a big one. Thirty Five. 35.

Thirty Five is the year that your doctor informs you that your fertility is quickly declining and you are becoming of advanced maternal age. I joke, of course, but I have to admit I’m feeling the pressure of aging despite the fact that I also feel in the best physical health of my life. I’m active, I’m running, I’m feeling pretty good! But I’m also struggling with certain things, like a recent diagnosis of PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) which is causing me to worry about my weight (needlessly, but it is a constant source of anxiety for me) and of course that constant question of whether or not I will (or can) have another baby.

This is a question I never considered. When I finally decided that we would have one child, I thought that would be it. It wasn’t until the last year or so that I really started thinking honestly about having a second. I love my life right now. Isabel is amazing and I can’t imagine life with another one of her running around. I’ve talked a lot about my thoughts on only having one child, but I’ve had some things happen in my personal life lately that have me reconsidering…

Stressing about grown up stuff is no fun… fertility worries, a new car payment, Isabel starting school, plus my usual neuroses has had me all out of sorts.  When I get in these slumps I find it so hard to focus on any specific task. I’ve been in the process of revamping my Grace & Bambi Patterns, two of my very first patterns, but I have had such a hard time just keeping my thought process running in a straight line that it’s taking me much longer than usual. My creativity runs like a fast flowing stream with millions of little tributaries running off in all directions… One thing leads to something else, which leads to another thing, which ends in nothing ever getting done.

So, I’m trying to get back to what I did two years ago, when I was in one of the deepest depths of my depression and anxiety… allowing myself time to do the things I like. Making new things when the inspiration hits. Taking pretty pictures. Eating chocolate cake. Picking wildflowers. Making the time to run or do yoga. And writing.

I’m also taking vacation for the first time since Isabel was born (she’s almost 4!). We’re going camping, just for two nights, but I’m looking forward to disconnecting and spending a few days in the woods.

And of course I’m running my annual Birthday Sale! Pretty much everything is 20% off. No coupon necessary in my Etsy Shops, but you can use coupon code Birthday20 to purchase patterns directly on my website. Sale ends July 4th!

Belle Undies & Camisole Pattern has arrived!

Baby, Design Diary, New Items

It’s done! And I’m super late to post about it!

I made this pattern about two years ago when I started thinking about getting Isabel out of diapers. I’ve sewed it a lot. And since grading it in different sizes, I’ve sewn it for friends kids too!  This little pattern has gotten a lot of use around here.

The Belle Pattern is really easy. The trickiest part is sewing the fold over elastic, but if you’ve sewn with it before, these will be a breeze for you.

The instructions will walk you through how to sew the top with either a lace or FOE neckline. The undies are a super simple cut. Roomy, but perfect for under leggings and jeans.

I really hope you enjoy sewing these as much as I do. They are so quick to put together. It’s the perfect “my kid is napping and I want to make something” project. I currently have this pattern available in 2T-5T, but hope to release bigger kid sizes in the future.

You can purchase the pattern on Etsy or directly through my website!

The Delphine Thong

Design Diary, Lingerie, New Items, Sewing Patterns

Warning: butt cheeks ahead!

In my younger days, I wore thongs a lot more. It was the style of the times.  As I’ve “matured” I’ve replaced most of my skimpy thongs for more comfortable (still pretty) styles. That’s not to say that thongs aren’t comfortable – they definitely can be! And they serve a practical purpose…

A High Waist Thong may not be super practical for every day wear, but hot damn… it looks great on. I was skeptical when I first started getting requests for a high waist thong, but I thought I’d try it out. I was very pleasantly surprised!

The Delphine Thong

As I was developing this pattern I wanted to come up with a way to use scalloped stretch lace on a high waist thong – that’s View C of the pattern. It’s a little bit Ultimate Lace Panties mixed with a little Ava Panties and I’m really happy with how it turned out. The style lines allow you to mix and match colours and fabrics, one of my favourite things to do with a design!

I made a few different sets as I was sewing up samples, pairing the basic high waist version with my Natalie Crop Top, then I made some bottoms for a Romy Bra and Jasmine Bra (from my Valentine’s Day Sew Along) from my own lingerie drawer.

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A few more kits

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That last batch of Lingerie Sewing Kits sold out within an hour or two, so I put together 9 more in a variety of prints and colours. There is just enough fabric to sew a Grace & Jasmine set, or pretty much any bralette and low-rise panty combo.  The kits come with everything you need, excluding the pattern, thread, and sewing machine needles! They even have a little piece of organic cotton jersey for the gusset lining.
Amethyst Satin & Lace Kit

Modern Floral in Black, Purple and Coral Lingerie Kit

Black Lace Print Lingerie Set

Mint Gingham Cotton Lingerie Kit
Daisy Floral Lingerie Sewing Kit

Classic Pink Satin and Black Lace Lingerie Kit

Rosebud Lingerie Sewing Kit

Navy and White Polka Dot Lingerie Sewing Kit

A few kits just landed in the shop…

Uncategorized
Last year I had the opportunity to teach a class at the Design Exchange in Toronto! It was fun and a gigantic learning experience for me. Teaching is something I really enjoy and I hope to do a class again someday.
I had a few kits leftover from the workshop and have just posted them in my Etsy Shop. There are only 3 Fabric/Notion kits and 1 Notions kit! So if you are interested, don’t wait, snatch ’em up now!
Current Kits Available:

Black and Coral Floral

Shop Kits

Seafoam and Champagne Kit

Seafoam and Champagne Kit

Abstract Floral

Abstract Floral

If the demand is there, I’ll make up more kits as I have the time!

Shop all Kits by clicking HERE.

Free Pattern for July!

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I’ve got thick thighs. They’re muscular from carrying around lazy pugs, hauling babies up stairs, and… a they’re little chubby due to my love of ice cream and chocolate and poutine.  When I was younger, I used to be very thin, but age has but a few extra pounds on me. I don’t really mind, but one thing that is a little annoying is when you’re wearing a skirt or dress on a hot summer day and your sweaty thighs rub against one another as you’re walking… The dreaded thigh chafe.

I tried making lace bands, but they just rolled up or fell down. I tried powders and creams, but those didn’t last. So, I made some 1990’s style bike shorts… and finally found something that works!

Get the Pattern Here
These are your basic fitted bike short. They have no side seam, and the pattern consists of only two pieces: The Shorts Piece and a Gusset. I added a gusset so you can wear these a la carte if you wish. 
It hasn’t been terribly hot here this summer (not complaining), but I’ve still been getting a lot of wear out of these. They’re great for under too-short skirts and dresses, or for wearing to bed with a tank top! I’ll be honest… I sometimes just wear them all day because, let’s face it, they’re kind of cute.
I’ve added a size to this pattern: XXL. I personally find the sizing to be generous, especially if you sew these out of a good, 4-way stretch fabric.
These shorts don’t require much… just some stretchy knit fabric (cotton/lycra is ideal), some wide stretch lace, a little fold over elastic for the waist (though I’m sure you could also make a casing and use regular elastic), and some thread. I’ve already made myself 3 pairs of these!

This pattern will be available for FREE for the month of July on Craftsy. After July it will no longer be free, so download it while you can!

PS. Today is my birthday!

PPS. I named these after Hilda the curvy pin-up.

New Pattern Collection

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I started working on these patterns right after I had Isabel. At first, things were easy… Izzy slept so much. Then she discovered the world and decided she never wanted to sleep again… But, with a whole lot of trial and error, lots and lots of patience, sticking to a routine, and a really good babysitter, I have finally accomplished something!
I wanted to create a collection of lingerie that could double as lounge wear. Comfortable, versatile pieces that are easy to sew. I wanted to take some vintage pieces, like ’20’s style tap pants and cami-knicker combo’s, but modernize them. So, here they are! I hope you like them as much as I do!

The Alice Knickers are my take on 1920’s style tap pants.  They have a modern low rise, and semi-circular cut which gives them a soft fluttery look.
I have a small collection of vintage slips. I’ve written about my love of slips before… they are so great to wear to bed. They are comfy but also so pretty. I’ve designed the Clementine Slip to be tight fitting, with just a little support under the bust.

The Eloise Shorts are perfect for wearing to bed. They are super short and have a low rise. I’m a lady with a bit of a tummy and like low rise garments because it doesn’t cut into my new mom soft belly. The shorts have a flat front, but elastic at the back.

I posted a picture of the Emma Romper on Instagram months ago and had so many people asking me for this pattern! It took forever, but here it is. I’ve already posted a tutorial on how to sew it with a cinched waist.

The Hannah Chemise is one of my favorites. I came up with this style soon after I had Isabel and was still sporting a pretty significant belly. The soft gathers at the waist are so forgiving. The banding around the top allows you to experiment with different fabric combinations!

The Ivy Lace Panties are designed specifically for use with Scalloped Stretch Lace. I recommend using 8-9″ wide stretch lace. I know that can be a tricky width to find, but Sew Sassy stocks it in quite a few colours.  You can sometimes also find regular width stretch lace that has a scalloped edge.

The Josephine Bralette is a style I’ve been making for a while. I really like it because it allows you to combine contrasting fabrics. The Josephine Bralette can be sewn two ways – either with a racer back or traditional hook and eye closure,

View A of the Nora Panties is my favourite thing right now! I want to make a dozen of these for myself. They are so comfortable and flattering. The Nora Pattern an be sewn so many ways. The pattern comes with instructions on how to make three variations… but I can think of a few other ways to sew them that would be fun too.

Lastly, is the Scarlett Bra. This is also a style that I’ve had in my lingerie shop for a while. The Scarlett pattern comes with instructions on how to style this bra two different ways. Racer back bras are my favourite right now. I’m not sure what it is, but I find them so comfy, and I love how they accentuate the shape of the back…
One of the new things I’ve been doing is working on some video’s. I’ve started a YouTube Channel, where I post some demo’s. If you’ve never sewn lingerie before and need a little help with the instructions, I’m hoping the video’s will be a help to you.
I have one more thing in store to share with you… but that will have to wait for another day! I hope you like the patterns.